By: Jahleah Santiago
Nestled in the heart of Flatiron, Periyali (35 West 20th Street) has been a beloved Greek culinary destination for almost four decades. Owner Nicola Kotsoni’s insight, inspirations, traditions and innovation have kept Periyali a perennial favorite among diners. With a menu that features flavors from all across Greece, her balance between honoring tradition and embracing modernity has continued to draw in patrons since its opening in 1987. Now, following a stunning redesign and the introduction of an entire floor dedicated to private dining, Periyali is drawing even more attention. Nicola, who also owns Il Cantinori, Amali, Bar Six and Bar Room with her partner Steve Tzolis, took time to talk about Periyali’s long reign as a pillar of Greek dining in Manhattan.
Periyali’s cuisine is deeply rooted in the flavors and traditions of the Greek Islands, particularly Patmos, Kotsoni explains, “The original chef here was a woman from Patmos. While there isn’t anything specific from Patmos alone, Greek food in general inspires our menu.” One dish that stands out is the octopus, a perennial favorite at Periyali. “The octopus is a collaboration from the many different chefs we’ve had over the 37 years,” says Kotsoni. Preserving traditional recipes from the restaurant’s first chefs, Irene and Victor Gouras, while innovating for modern diners is a delicate balance. “I try to bring in new people with fresh ideas. We’re actually planning a major menu change with some of the more traditional items. We’re in the process of doing that now,” says Kotsoni. This approach ensures that Periyali remains both timeless and contemporary at the same time.
Greek wine has become an integral part of Periyali’s identity. “We were the first people to have a large Greek wine list. Through the years, Greece has come a long way with wine. The whites from Santorini are incredible. Almost every part of Greece is producing wines,” Kotsoni explains. Aside from innovative wine lists and exceptional traditional cuisine, Periyali’s success is also attributed to the strong bonds within its team. “Keeping people happy—that means customers and of course our staff,” says Kotsoni. This philosophy has resulted in long-term staff retention, with some members having been with Periyali for well over a decade.
Maintaining the authenticity of Greek cuisine at Periyali involves careful sourcing of ingredients. “We buy certain products from Astoria, originally sourced in Greece. As far as fish, meat, and anything perishable, we try to work with as many local farms as possible. We get fish from Montauk,” Kotsoni explains. Kotsoni suggests trying the stuffed zucchini and stuffed tomatoes on the current menu. “The zucchini is filled with ground lamb and a lemon egg sauce, while the tomatoes are filled with rice and lots of herbs,” she says.
Restaurateur Nicola Kotsoni has left an indelible mark on Manhattan’s dining scene. She shows no signs of stopping other than to smell the roses in the floral arrangements she meticulously creates at her restaurants. Periyali remains beloved by regulars and first-time visitors alike thanks to Kotsoni’s personal touch throughout and her continued commitment to offering wonderful Greek cuisine in a truly welcoming atmosphere.
Published by: Nelly Chavez
