By: Maria Williams

One of the important pieces of advice in the world of art is that a true artist never stops learning. Truly enough, the moment an artist becomes unwilling to learn is when stagnation sets in, leading to the death of creativity. This also applies in the field of winemaking, which is a blend of art, science, and business. Michael Browne, founder of highly-acclaimed Browne Family Wines, always considers himself a student of viticulture and oenology. Even in his 27th harvest, he is still constantly learning new things, fuelling continuous refinement and improvement of his craft while retaining the core values and qualities that made him successful. Due to varied seasonal conditions, no two vintages are alike – a year with above-average rainfall will produce different grapes from a year that was hotter than usual.

According to Michael, a winemaker who’s just starting should prioritize finding their own style through exploration and experimentation. However, they also need to balance this approach with tried-and-tested wisdom from the generations that came before them. Winemaking is at least 8,000 years old, and the scientific processes governing it are unchanging. 

“While all wineries make wine for other people to drink, a successful winemaker must also have their own style and stick to it,” he says. “There’s so many styles of wine that I compare them to genres of music. Each person gravitates to a particular genre, and the same goes for wine. Winemakers should prioritize developing their own style, but they also have to be sensitive to what the consumer wants because they need to stay in business. You might think your wine is the premier in the world, but if not enough people like it enough to buy it, then you’re just engaging in a really expensive hobby.”

However, Michael also cautions aspiring winemakers from becoming too preoccupied with chasing trends that they end up forgetting their roots or the core qualities that make up their wine. Just like your favorite song, this requires a delicate balance. “Imagine a quartet without a violin,” says Michael. “Imagine a wine without luscious fruit.”

“I’ve seen many wine producers suddenly make huge changes to their product, just because there’s a trendy new style or technique in the cellar. While it can be exciting, these decisions can also alienate their dedicated customers. Just like in music, there are a lot of bands who lose fans because they’ve changed their sound. Two albums later, they return to the sound that made them famous in the first place and they start charting again. It’s important to listen to what people want, but don’t stifle your creativity and betray what brought you your initial success,” Michael says, adding that Browne Family Wines’ mission is to consistently create wines that both meet his high standards and are enjoyed by consumers.

Another important tip Michael wants to share with potential winemakers is to ensure they have a solid business plan before embarking on their winemaking journey. This includes having adequate capital, which is the determining factor for equipment, staffing, and many other components. He believes that artistic pursuits like winemaking require a certain level of risk-taking, but, like any business, these risks must be smart and calculated.

Michael began his winemaking journey in 1997, starting a winery with his colleague in the restaurant industry. After learning the ins and outs of the trade, he fulfilled his dream of a family-owned winery when he and his wife, Sarah, founded Browne Family Wines in 2011. Today, the company produces two top-rated signature wine brands: CIRQ and CHEV.

CIRQ is a limited-production Pinot Noir grown in the heart of California’s Russian River Valley, exclusively available for members. Inspired by Michael’s time as a circus performer in his youth, CIRQ is a refined ‘ringleader’ in the wine market, possessing the same study, balance, and finesse required of a circus artist. CIRQ’s 2019 Pinot Noir received multiple accolades, including a score of 100 from Jeb Dunnuck and a 96 from Decanter Magazine. Meanwhile, its 2021 Pinot Noir garnered 99+ points from Jeb Dunnuck, 97 from Decanter Magazine, and 95 from Wine Enthusiast, Vinous, and James Suckling respectively.

CHEV’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are inspired by Michael’s appreciation for the old-school workmanship practiced by his father, Bob. Released twice a year, CHEV wines hail from various regions on the US West Coast, such as the Russian River Valley, Willamette Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands, and Santa Rita Hills. CHEV’s 2021 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was rated 96 by Jeb Dunnuck,  as well as 95 by Antonio Galloni and James Suckling. Its 2021 RRV Chardonnay received a 95 from Decanter and a 96 from Jeb Dunnuck.

“My journey as a winemaker is never complete,” Michael says. “Every season and every harvest, I learn something new, and it is incorporated into how we produce our wines, either as something to continue to do, or something for us to craft from within. Browne Family Wines continues to mature alongside our consumers, but we never forget our core value of putting the same emphasis on craftsmanship and quality from our first vintage until our 50th and beyond.”

Published by: Martin De Juan